Ban Chiang: Skeletons & Pottery, Paradise Regained?
The village of Ban Chiang (บ้านเชียง) is approximately 20 minutes away from Gecko
Villa, beyond Nong Han, and we will be happy to drive you there should you wish to
visit during your stay.
The village is centered around its museum and archaeological dig, and has several shops and
craft stores selling the renowned Ban Chiang pottery with its distinctive variety of designs, varying from red and cream swirls to black patterns, as well as numerous other
handicrafts. The village also has several
small restaurants. The museum has informative signs in both Thai and
English.
The designation of the site by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site (for bearing "unique
testimony to a civilization that has disappeared") has helped encourage the villagers to maintain and promote their ages-old traditions and cultures, and to rekindle many of the
techniques used by their ancestors.
Nirvana or Never Never Land?
Ban Chiang as it stands today was originally thought to have been constructed up
to 4 to 5,000 years ago on top of a cemetery
and old remains (the exact dates are still subject to discussion, or perhaps more
accurately, bitter dispute!) It would appear that the location has been occupied almost
constantly, and as a result of this, excavations here show an evolution from the
pre-metal to the Bronze age and then to the Iron age. Other artifacts
include iron and bronze jewelry and tools, as well as glass, shell, and stone objects. Even today, some of these objects
escape definition, such as the clay rollers with their detailed carvings, that were found
in what appear to be children's graves.
What was particularly fascinating at the time of the dig was that Ban Chiang seemed to change
the long-held perceptions of southeast Asia as being an
insignificant nowhere during the Bronze Age. Beyond this, the discovery at Ban Chiang seemed somehow to evoke
visions of a paradisiacal past, of pastoral bliss amongst a farming people (rice grains
were discovered) living in a closely-knit community, and
at peace: the weapons typically found in European and
other global Bronze Age communities were absent here...
Adding to this, the received understanding of the site's discovery tells of a young
American (Stephen Young) back in 1966, stumbling over a relic emerging
from
the eroded soil in the village, leading to the eventual exhumation of a ghost-like village
from the past.
Thus whilst the skeletons and pottery, the art and relics are undoubtedly genuine, there is little desire among many to accept a more recent dating of the antiques found here to "only" 2,000 years ago. The mirage of the world's most advanced Bronze Age people, living in peace, and farming rice then as today, emerging from the past as if by accident, is too captivating...